Sunday, 13 July 2008

Plastikote is a swear word.

So, today after many months of abject laziness and slothfulness I prepped and based 31 Grymn.

Fondly washed and dried them then glued them to their likkle slotta bases, used greenstuff to fill the slot and give some relief to the flatness of the base, I glued ikkle magnets under the bases so that they would stick to the metal lined draws i shall use them to transport them...

... then I went to the garage with a trusty can of black spray paint... (plastikote flat black fast dry spray enamel to be precise). PLastikote is a common brand here in the Uk, and widely available, I've heard horror stories but not had a problem despite using it for a number of years.

Never had this happen before, but i've heard of others complaining, but the paint was grainy - very grainy... and it has hardly stuck to the metal (or the couple of pieces of resin scenery) it kind of smudges off even though dry! Tried a sample from 2 other cans and the same effect!!

More to the point how do I rescue my Grymn without having to strip them and do the whole base thing again? Yeah, deep down I know they can't be rescued, but the little plopping noise they make as you drop them into paint stripper is soul destroying.

Anyone practiced in the art of stripping paint from resin?


  1. I don't know if you have either of these cleaning product over there but the spray cleaner Formula 409 or Simple Green can remove paint from plastic and resin safely*, BUT it will also dissolve any super glue bonds. But since you are starting over, this shouldn't be an issue.

    *I use simple green to clean paint off of Resin Kryomek tank hulls. Though with all chemical dips you may want to watch over anything you put in. If you have a small piece that you won't miss you might want to do a test dip.

  2. cheers cyborg trucker... I have the metal in paint stripper right now but have not attempted the resin yet - i'll look out the products you mention.

  3. Hey also a cheap $1 store tooth brush can be used to "scrub" the plastic or metal figures to break loose the paint dust particles and wear it down to the good paint that stuck like normal underneath. I like to find a brush with bristles of different lengths so they can get down deep and clean out the offending crud. Also if it cleans up well enough and the figure doesn't have a ton of fine detail you can just give the cleaned figure another primer coat.

    On a side note I know a lot of people think certain brands of spray are crud and end up ruining figures. Now I'm not defending any brands, but there are some very important things that can affect how paint goes onto a target model. Obviously #1 is the surface which needs to be clear of dirt, grime and oils. Which I'm sure everyone knows. Though something people may not is humidity. I have to spray late at night in Wisconsin during the summer cause of the high heat and moisture content in the air. It causes the paint to react before it can hit the surface of the model and creates that dusty coating that ruins a surface. Another important factor is storing your paints in a temperature stable environment. To hot or cold can sour the paint inside.

    Oh also don't leave metal in those two spray cleaning products I mentioned. It can eat away at the antimony in the pewter and pit the metal.

  4. I've just installed iStripper, so I can watch the hottest virtual strippers stripping on my taskbar.